Have you ever been in a situation where you need to cut something out of a car but your space is limited? It’s usually a spot where a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder or even a little three-inch cut-off wheel on a die grinder won’t reach. And forget the typical battery-powered reciprocating saw—those are usually a foot and a half long or so and can weigh upwards of 10 pounds. That’s a lot of heft to maneuver, especially if you’re trying to swing it while laying underneath a car.
What can work is a little reciprocating air saw. They’re designed for cutting thin sheetmetal, but given enough time, enough blades and enough cutting fluid, they’ll even slice through something like 3/16-inch steel plate.
Story Overview
- AIRCAT’s 6350 compact reciprocating air saw is perfect for cutting tasks in tight spaces
- Always let the air saw do the work—forcing it to cut will just ruin saw blades
- Use a 32-tooth or finer blade for most metal work
- Always use safety glasses or goggles and gloves when using an air saw
The saw I have is an AIRCAT 6350 from Summit Racing. I used it to cut out the center of a 1/8-inch thick Corvette transmission crossmember and it sliced through with ease.
The AIRCAT 6350 is a very compact tool, measuring approximately eight inches long without the blade and tipping the postage scale at just over one pound. It features a 9,500 stroke-per-minute motor for fast cutting action (determined by the thickness of the material). Equally important, I’ve found the little saw just hums along. The vibration level is low and so is the sound.
The saw is easy to handle when you’re stretched out on your back trying to slice something out of your car. And yes, I know it’s not advised to use powered cutting tools while laying on your backside, but we all know there are situations where you just gotta.
Even though the AIRCAT is small and light, you should still use two hands to steady it. Keep the shoe (sometimes called the guide) next to the material you’re cutting. The shoe is adjustable for length. Let the saw do the work—forcing it won’t make the job go any faster. In fact, it might just wear out or damage the blade sooner. Wait for the saw to get up to speed before starting the cut, then slowly feed the saw into the material. If the blade is in contact with the material before you start the saw, there’s a good chance it will kick back, possibly out of your control.
You’ll soon find the AIRCAT saw can work its way around a curve. The idea is to gently steer the nose of the saw as you guide the blade around the shape you’ve laid out. Don’t use excess force to make the corner.
It’s a good idea to mark cut lines in the material. I use a white Milwaukee Inkzall marker to lay out the cut lines, but chalk or a strip of masking tape will work too. Make sure you note the exit point for the saw where the cut ends.
If you’re cutting on a bench, you can clamp a 1 x 4 or 2 x 4 piece of wood on the material as a guide. It works really well for making a long, straight cut. As the blade nears the end of the cut, slightly reduce the pressure on the saw. This can help when it comes to over-cuts. Also, allow the saw to coast slowly out of the cut. This makes for a nice, clean edge.
The AIRCAT 6350 consumes approximately 4 CFM at full bark, which many small air compressors can handle. I have a big compound twin cylinder air compressor so the air supply demand isn’t critical. Something I do before I start is to make sure I have sufficient airline behind the tool so that I can easily move it around. And if you’re under the car, don’t lay on the hose! Drape it over your shoulder.
Safety Considerations
Here are some safety considerations when using an air saw:
- Make sure there is really good lighting in the work area
- Select the correct blade for the material. Fine-toothed metal cutting blades are right for steel and alloy materials
- Never insert or withdraw the blade from a cut or lead hole while the blade is moving
- Never put down a saw until the motor has stopped
- Unplug the airline when the saw isn’t in use
- Don’t reach under or around the material being cut
Be cognizant of what’s behind the material you’re cutting. I usually have a section of aluminum plate or rubber to go behind the cut if it’s close to something delicate. Finally, don’t forget about personal protective equipment (PPE). I use safety glasses or goggles along with gloves. You might need respiratory protection depending upon what you’re cutting, too.
As you see, air saws like the AIRCAT 6350 are extremely versatile. Some folks who use them claim they’ll never use a hack saw again. From my experience, that could very well be true.
Believe it or not, this little AIRCAT reciprocating air saw cut out this chunk of transmission crossmember from my 1971 Corvette. The steel is 1/8-inch thick. A three-inch cutoff wheel on a die grinder worked in some spots. But in others, the only way to make the cut in the car was with this saw. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
The AIRCAT is quite compact. It’s barely eight inches long without the blade and the air hose nipple. The saw is also narrow, making it a perfect tool for cutting stuff in cramped quarters. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
Blades are easy to swap out with the included Allen wrench. The AIRCAT saw is supplied with two each of 18-, 24-, and 32-tooth blades. For most metal work, you’ll want to use a 32-tooth or finer blade. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
An important feature is the dual action trigger. The little safety “flipper” must be pushed back toward your hand before the saw trigger can be engaged. This is particularly handy when your hands are positioned close to the saw blade. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
This is the shoe or guide of the saw. It can be moved forward and back by way of a Phillips-head screw on the top of the tool. The shoe helps determine the angle of attack along with the depth of the cut. It also acts as an adjustable leverage fulcrum. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
Here’s the Milwaukee Tool Inkzall paint marker mentioned in the text. They come in several colors and are also available in fine point versions. Make sure to dab the point a couple of times to get the paint flowing before use. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
